Larry Cherubino Shines in Matthew Jukes’ Top 100 2016/17
Top Australian producer Larry Cherubino has three wines in the recently revealed list of Matthew Jukes’ 100 Best Australian Wines 2016/17.
Two of the wines are in Hallgarten’s portfolio, the Cherubino Cabernet Sauvignon, 2014 and The Yard ‘Acacia’ Shiraz 2014.
The list was announced at Australia House where more than 300 members of the wine trade and press gathered to taste the top 100 wines.
Here’s what Jukes had to say about Larry’s triumphant wines:
CHERUBINO MARGARET RIVER CABERNET SAUVIGNON, 2013
“I have come to the conclusion that my favourite Cabernets in the world are those underpinned with epic acidity and serene tannins. Fruit is commonplace, oak is humdrum, but orotund tannins, derived from magnificent Cabernet skins, laced with enthralling acidity are what life is all about. Larry’s wine has these essential ingredients. Yes, the fruit is unflinchingly superb and the resonance of the wine, as it transmits its sonorous message to your pulsating olfactory bulb, is mesmeric, but without the finesse and tension of tannins and acidity it would be just another predictably guileless, glossy Cabernet. Thank you Larry for focusing on the important factors and not the surface sheen. There is another wine in Larry’s ever-evolving portfolio which caught my eye and it is a Rhone-y blend with an irreverent label – 2014 Apostrophe Possessive Reds’. Made from 90% Shiraz, 8% Grenache & 2% Mourvedre this is a zany, clownish wine with masses of briary appeal, a large dose of Larry’s vinous flair and some crafty acidity on the finish to keep it all in check.”
THE YARD ‘ACACIA’ SHIRAZ, 2014
“The Yard Shiraz comes from the relatively cool climate of Frankland River some 100 kilometres east of Margaret River. When I first tasted this wine I made notes that on re-reading them sounded like I had seen a Bandol and not an Aussie Shiraz. I listed earthiness, rose petals, Turkish delight, dark, sooty fruit, but lightness and freshness on the tannins. This style of cool climate Shiraz appeals greatly to my palate. ‘Light’ doesn’t need to mean dilute or frail. In this instance it simply refers to the ‘weight’ of the wine which in turn has nothing whatsoever to do with its intensity. This is, my goodness me, and intensely fruit-driven wine with an inky colour, but in all other respects it is nimble, refreshing, melodic and charming. Larry has two important whites in his operation, both of whom have appeared in 100 Best Lists of old and both of whom have immensely loyal followers. So, for those of you in the know, 2014 Margaret River Chardonnay is slightly more billowy and invigorating Chardonnay than last year’s bosomy 2013 and 2015 Pemberton Sauvignon Blanc is awesome with discreet but firm oak embroidered into the core of this super-classy Sauvignon. Larry is a genuine master of all trades and jack of none.”
