This is Wild West Country. Arid desert, big skies, small, dusty, one-street towns, tumbleweed, heavy swing doors opening onto darkened bars, the sound of honky-tonk. The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly, the Man With No Name. The contrast with manicured Constantia, oh-so-cool Stellenbosch and the industrial sprawl of Paarl couldn’t be greater. This is frontier country: next stop is Namibia.

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